Salalah-The Vagabond's Virgin

"Salalah...Huh?"

"It's a place in Oman... You mean in Muscat? No, Muscat is the capital, Oman is the country..."

"Hmm...So wanna come?"

"Who all are going?" "Just me for now..."

This was typical conversation when I brought up the topic of visiting Salalah with my friends. I got some cheap tickets from Dubai and knew about this place in the southernmost tip that offers visa on arrival. What was best was that the place is 1.5 hours away from Dubai and just about a weekend trip, so I was game for sure. Others didn't even know of Salalah or were not sure if it was anywhere in the list of 'to-go' places. So anyway, I went alone. I flew down for the weekend. I went for 2 nights and visited far east and west of the city. I came back awestruck, sleep deprived and as bankers would say 'double-digit' friends in return.

Lets deal with the place and itinerary first and then how it went for me later.

Salalah is the second largest city in Sultanate of Oman after the capital, Muscat. The sultan traditionally lives there still. Like most of neighboring regions, Salalah has fair amount of expat population majorly from Asia. Being from India, I would say, Salalah was piece of Kerela hard blended with Omani culture and better weather. The locals are Omani that speak Arabic while there is a large population of Jeballis as well. It has major development going on with a flourishing port and upcoming Airport. You can easily find all main retail and food chains. There are two major hotels- Hilton and Crown plaza that have decent music and clubbing scene during the weekend.

What does one see when they reach here? You exit a small airport with single immigration desk and no shops at the exit. Once you come out from there on the road, its laid with green trees and empty vastness around. Soon you are driving along the sea and then the corniche. The Arab palm trees are replaced by beautiful coconut trees around and there are 'hey tourist! welcome to our city' smiles spread as people see you drive by in the car.

The city and extended Dhofar region are a bliss for drives and off-roading.

Eastwards
You begin by visiting Sumhuram Archeological site. This was an old city which was used for Frankincense trade historically. The ruins are now preserved as a UNESCO site. Next you drive along to visit the Wadi Darbat. This will be the most beautiful yet conflicting place. You see bunch of camels merrily bathing and drinking water amidst coconut and palm trees and photogenic waterfalls and oasis. The place is right out of picture book with a dramatic valley and water stream surrounded by trees and mini root-caves. Next you can leave the valley and go towards the hills briefly stopping by the 800 meters deep Taiq sink hole. These are deep valley sorts made of semi porous limestone which keeps the temperature low and acted as refuge for locals in old times from unbearable heat. Now its just a sink hole to see and stay away as what goes down, stays there. Alternately, you can consider travelling there with someone you dislike and provide a swift push..

Next where I went was a place that will be etched forever in my heart. The dream of walking in the clouds! The Jebel Samhan. A small mountain peak that goes up only to end in a sudden vertical wall or in my case, clouds. I may have been lucky. This was out of bollywood movies endorsing romanticism. Walking in clouds is pretty much same as walking in the fog- except that its not. There is a whole drift in the scenery. You walk with or against where the clouds float, careful not to breach the boundaries of cliff and life while you feel them illuminating your whole body with cold chill and daze. There is only as much I can describe and rest I leave to the indescribable nature of unknown. One can drive along the cost later to visit small fishing village of Taqah and call it a day or drive along as long as time or intent permits, because scenary will always beckon.

Westwards

While east maybe is more relaxed place for nature lovers, west is the side with breathtaking beaches, mountain trails and great avenues for offroading. It is also the frankincense trail. West side is a day to start by driving to Mirbat and enjoying a swim in the beach while you spot dolphins near the shore. You can idle all day and visit blow holes few kilometers but wait, you will be missing on the ultimate destination-the Fazaya beach. Fazaya is 30-40 kms further to mirbat and passes through labyrinth of mountains and frankinsence trails and deserted valleys. You reach a point where you wonder where can a beach be in these mountains while you drive up the rough road...and then suddenly a twist reveals sapphire blue peeping out from behind the rocks. It expands to engulf the whole vision soon. You just drive towards it while you carry a false sense of exploring an unknown place. You also think how immensely beautiful it would have been for the first person ever who travelled this far on camels or toes to meet this view. Fazaya beats best beaches in the world. Clean shores, mushroom rocks, array of birds and pristine beauty with sounds of nature to reveal silence in your head.

I leave it here. Like a great fall from peak. This was Salalah. If you ask me what is the good and bad thing about this city, I'd say its virginity. You travel to such beautiful places to realize there is no one around. This brings it closest possible to nature and keeps the serenity intact. At the same time, now that you have visited it, the place belongs to you...you feel like flaunting it. You want to tell people how they are unaware or overlooking this place.

As for my experience, I met some great people who went out of the way to make my time memorable. They acted as if it was their obligation to show me around. I was taken care of as a child- the plans were made, itineraries decided, parties thrown, people called, transfers organized. I wouldn't thank for this. It would be truly belittling the whole hospitality. I also met the locals who are willing to help just like that. I carry cell number of a Jeballi girl who whtsapps me though we do not understand each other's language!

To sum it all, what started as a getaway decided by my need to travel and cheap tickets, ended up being a wonderful experience. It is good to leave yourself to people and places you don't want to doubt. It is good to trust by default. Trust that people are good, they mean good, places are not gimmicks, landmarks not commercialized and landscapes not altered.

I am not sure if you would have Salalah on your list particularly if you are living far from this region. The long trips for most tourists have bias of its popular acceptability as destination. But if you are a traveller and passing nearby, its more than worth a detour. If you live 2-3 hours flight away, pack your bags and just go. Expect nothing, Experience beauty, Explore Salalah!