As the winter onsets on Dubai,
its almost a year I came here. In all fairness, I can't point out why I moved. I
was desperate to move out of India, yes. Today I can say, after having traveled
to over 50 cities in the world, including the likes of London, Berlin, Istanbul, Hong Kong and
Singapore, I made a good decision. I don't know what gave me courage or
conviction to move, because I was giving in to a hunch...but guess desperation
gives you unparalleled strength. I had visited Dubai in August 2012 when I saw it
as a tourist, unknown to the fact that I will be moving and living here after 3
months. Such is fate... Anyway so I have been a tourist, I have lived here, I
have received guests here and traveled from here. I have seen perceptions and
experienced little reality in whatever time I spent here.
For the sake of education, my
own as well since its time I understand a little history of this country, and origin of
names of hundred roads and familiarity with the smiling photos on several
buildings, I am briefing how it evolved initially.
Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum became ruler of Dubai in 1958 and pretty much the
father of all changes that happened later. Firstly, he realized Dubai had oil,
little but still an enviable asset. They say on being asked by Americans how much will he sell
it for, he asked back, how much will they charge to drill it for him... Secondly,
he undertook dredging of Dubai creek to help ships dock here. This was what will
shape up the Dubai market for export and re-export of Gold with Britishers. Thirdly he realized where he was sitting-right in the center of east
and west. Together, he realized he had a deal worth selling.
Dubai did have a great tiff with Abu Dhabi and there were recurrent
border disputes. Finally, long after Britishers left in 1971, UAE was formed in
1979 by which Abu Dhabi was named the capital and they jointly had control of rest of the UAE. Hence, Dubai could rule itself like an
independent state- particularly pertaining to commerce and trade. Soon after
that, free zones were introduced in Dubai giving unrestricted control of labor
and capital to companies for facilitating their influx. Sheikh Mohammad became
the Prime Minister of UAE and autocratic ruler of Dubai. Now this man was ruler,
and autocratic, but he was also a business man. Funnily, its a fact that Dubai was
a common refueling stop for hijacked jets, and Sheikh Mohammed became one of the
world’s most experienced hostage negotiators...
Later during 1990's several
companies moved to Dubai. This happened in conjugation with opening of several
other free zones and providing tax benefits. And then in a flash it happened... A city
which is strictly Islamic, became a shameless whore to show off its assets and
lure the world. Beaches were opened and taxes taken off, music fests and
shopping festivals were organized and posh dwelling and cheaply accessible multi-national
women became available...Everything was made to be grand and largest or tallest or most
expensive. which is why, after
Britishers left, many Britons stayed back. It's after all in a close radius of
flying...Many more traveled for tax-free salary. Rest came spilling out from
disturbance-prone nations-which explains high concentration of Egyptians,
Syrians and Russians. After 2002, Dubai allowed foreigners to own property,
opening up the real estate market as well.
This is about how it really evolved.
But how is it to live in here?
It is the most cosmopolitan
city in the world with as high as nearly 86% expats- New York is close
to 37% followed by Miami, London etc. This of course doesn't necessarily mean it
is the most international city as over 50% are Indians itself! Actually, Dubai is
a remixed formula, like a teenager who loves to flaunt. Everything is new and
pomp and showy and done as if there is no tomorrow. I would only say, it's
comfortable and as far as the philosophy of co-existence of masses is concerned,
Its Don't ask, Don't tell.
It is a myth, but a beautiful
one. And it is an accepted myth. Everyone who lives here knows when they
will leave, or know for certain that they would. It's a different story that
many have overstayed by years or decades even. The reason is comfort of life,
proximity to home, ease to live in an adopted, tweak able lifestyle. I
would say it is an example of pros of autocracy over dummy democracy. The
masses, if you ask them, love their ruler. There is a feeling, or perception
that ruler means good. They are respected. People genuinely feel safe. There was
a tiff after huge exodus when Emaratis felt out of place in their country.
Sheikh Mohammed said firmly- "I intend to make this a world's city. I know there
are things that Emirati culture is unfamiliar or un-approving of- but unless that
is provided for, people will never choose to come to Dubai. However, I am not
providing anything overlooking what Emiratis need. If there are clubs and open
beaches, there are mosques as well, and the choice, to go where you want to go."
It sounds simpler, and obviously easily executed being an autocracy, but yet
commendable. This is indeed a delicate balance, and Dubai is firmly hanging
on...
While it is strictly
an Islamic country where locals wear Abayas and Kanduras as daily clothes,
you can see men and women in as much short or skimpy clothes. What is important
is no one cares and stares or bothers. Everything is fine because no one
understand the cultures of others and so it is passable. While pre- marital sex
and abortion or homosexuality is highest offense-in line with Islamic beliefs,
there is no dearth of couples living-in. Prostitution is not allowed but in all
fairness, I can say, it is encouraged. In fact this must be world's best
showcase of prostitutes-in terms of variety and ease of
availability.Yes, It is hypocritical. It is affluent amidst huge camp
workers who live sans their passports in cubicles and haven't been home for
ages. I know for a fact it is a huge problem. But what is happening is that its
just an extension of Don't ask don't tell. You have inhuman labor conditions.
Ok... Are you reporting? No, because I am an Indian/ Russian/ Britisher/Canadian
running this facility and I make profit like that.The workers don't know
how to report or are scared-the usual Islam country can fuck you fear. Hence no
one says or does anything.
This is the bottomline. There
is low probability of getting on wrong side. But if you do, the consequences are
severe.
So it is all budding under the
shadow of 7 stars and Burj Khalifas of the world- quality of life, despicable
life; unending luxury, hunger games; prostitution and anti non-platonic
relations; high heels and full veils...
What I feel? Happy. I love the
oblivion, comfort, super safety, quality of life, home away from home,
perception of luxury, availability of mediocre, hypocrisy of belief and routine
of rebellion. Very fitting. There are questions asked that need to be answered,
but I am happy not asking yet. From up there, from a high rise, things are not
clear, and beautiful, and longer it stays that way, longer stays the dream and
beauty of living it!
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